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WAITING
FOR EXPO 2015
By Enza
Bettelli
Extra virgin olive oil DOP from the Lombardy lakes
The water reservoirs of the Lombardy subalpine lakes retain warmth
and release humidity, so creating the conditions for an ideal microclimate
for olive trees. They were already cultivated here before
the Roman Era but, over the centuries, Lombard oil production has
gone through various phases. Benedictine monks made it flourish
in 1500; today we have a good quality production but alas in very limited
quantities.
The
geographic area of DOP includes Lake Como (or Lario) and Lake Iseo
(or Sebino). The banks of Lake Como are covered with magnificent
villas and parks, with characteristic villages, woods, pastures
and parks and natural reserves nearby. Lake Iseo is also very impressive;
and is next to Franciacorta, an area of excellent wines.
The Consortium and DOP
Oil from the Lombardy lakes obtained the DOP in 1997, but the consortium
for protection and control was founded in 1999. The consortium is volunteer-based,
with more than 60 associates, and the production regulation has
two sub-denominations, Sebino and Lario, which have to be indicated
on the label.
The Denomination of Protected Origin Lombardy Lakes Sebino is reserved
for extra virgin olive oil obtained from Leccino olives which must
make up at least 40%, and from either Frantoio, Casaliva, Pendolino
and Sbresa or all of them together, but no more than 60%. There
may alsobe other varieties as long as they are not more than 20%.
DOP Lombard Lakes Lario extra virgin olive oil must be obtained from the
following varieties, alone or together: Frantoio, Casaliva, Leccino not
less than 80%. Other varieties may be present but not exceeding
20%.
CHARACTERISTICS OF THE OIL
Olives should be harvested before January 15th of each year, and
a maximum yield of olives should be no more than 5000 kg per hectare
for intensive cultivation, harvested by hand directly from the plant
or with mechanical devices, and the olives should be pressed within
three days of harvesting. Extra virgin olive oil Lombardy Lakes must
have a green-yellowish colour, lightly fruity odour and fruity flavour,
with very slight bitter and piquant sensations. The flavour is particularly
light and delicate; it goes well with starters and fish dishes and
is perfect in the preparation of pastries.
GASTRONOMY OF THE TERRITORY
In
the DOP Lombardy Lake territory there are many interesting
cheeses such as Taleggio, Quartirolo and Gorgonzola all of which
are DOP, and a wide range of cold meats, such as salami Brianza DOP. In
the traditional gastronomy there is a lot of rice, corn (especially
polenta), potatoes and the so-called minor cereals (millet, barley,
rye, oats), buckwheat and chestnuts. Meat is mostly white and game.
There is a lot of fish from the lakes and rivers, such as "alosa
agone" which are salted and air dried to become "missoltini",
a very typical product from the area of Como, or perch in skillet
or with risotto. There are not many sweet specialties. But of course
there are excellent DOC and DOCG wines from Franciacorta which go
well with everything from starters to desserts.
(English translation by Gudrun Dalla Via)
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